Micron Pens are a great tool for artists of any skill level, and are easily affordable because if taken care of, they will last a long time (based on intensity of usage). They are easy to use for new/budding artists - a simple pen. No refilling, relatively sturdy, and the ink flows smoothly and evenly. They are reliable for the experienced artist - you know what you are going to produce when you pick up a particular pen. The line is even, there are no drips, the ink is consistent in color and sheen, and the simple use means very little prep and a smooth, quick, and even workflow.

They are well-regarded in the art world for their fine tip size, smooth scribing performance, and the archival quality, waterproof ink that is resistant to fading is popular with artists, illustrators, and writers alike for the ability to create fine, detailed lines.

They come in a limited range of colors, however black is probably the absolute favorite of the majority of artists out there.

There are some limits though. I have found in my testing that there are some times that these pens don’t do what you are hoping, and you still need to take some care when using them on final artworks or in conjunction with other media.

This review is focusing on Micron Pens against themselves. All tests were done by me, and based on as many possible situations as I could come up with to advise others on using them in their workflows. There are variables though that I can not 100% control or replicate - and those will be noted as much as possible with each test result. I have also documented everything as best I can, and I am going to provide you the evidence here.

This will be a lengthy blog post - but the information (I feel) is very useful, especially to those without a lot of experience with these pens. I feel it could also be useful to those who have experience with the pens, but are considering using them on or with other media that they haven’t tried before. This post could save you a lot of headache and wasted time/supplies if you learn small tweaks to your process or timing that can prevent problems.

“First” Impressions

It is a little hard to give a completely “first” impression of these pens because I have been using them routinely since 1997. At the time of writing this post, that is nearly 30 years. My first impression is long faded into the sands of time and the universe. However, I can give you a basic overview of the pens as best as possible through the eyes of a new user and give you some insight.

Construction:

The pens are in a plastic casing with caps that snap on when closed so you are assured of it being locked on. There is a clip on the end and this works well with pen loops, pockets, and other tool storage options. The end of the cap has a colored disk (in the color of the pen) and the nib size written on it. With the black and colored pens this nib size is easily readable, but on my light gray pens it is not. The issue is the surface is somewhat reflective and this reflection competes with the light gray colors. Darker grays are easier to read. In remedy of this problem the size is also labeled on the barrel of the pen in dark purple. The pen cap snaps on to the butt end of the pen (thankfully) so keeping the correct cap with the correct pen is easy when in use. The butt end of the pen also displays the color for easy reference in a storage bag or case.

The barrel of the pen is a comfortable length, diameter, and weight for your hand. It is not going to cause fatigue while using for long drawing sessions any more than a pencil or other pen will. In total the pen barrel and nib are approximately the same length as a typical biro/ball point pen (micron=5.062 inch / 12.87 cm, ballpoint=5.625 inch / 14.288 cm) and with the cap the micron pens are 1/18 of an inch (.318 cm) shorter than the average ballpoint (micron=5.25 inch / 13.335 cm, ballpoint=5.813 inch / 14.789 cm).

The texture is smooth/slick, and (in my opinion) non-irritating. The branding/information is printed on a clear sticker which is wrapped around the barrel (except for my brush pen which is apparently printed directly onto the barrel), and so while it is generally secure, you may find in some specific situations the printing flakes off. I am not sure what causes this, and in all the years of owning these pens I have only had 2-3 barrels do this in nearly 30 years. I have also (once or twice) had the edges of the sticker peel up and that can be mentally annoying - or maybe that’s just me. Do note, this is only a few very rare circumstances out of hundreds and hundreds of pens over decades. I am not sure if these pens were exposed to something in my studio/on my hands that caused these issues (I pretty much suspect it based on the rarity of occurrences) but I felt it was important to let people know if it happens to them, it is exceedingly rare to the overall general quality of the brand.

The diameter of the barrel is slightly larger than a typical biro/ball point pen but the inside of the cap leading to the nib at the “grip point” (or at least where I hold them) is “the same size”. The whole casing is plastic, and the attachment for the nibs is in a metal tip. The actual nib is made of a hard, fine, plastic material which is designed in shape and durability to provide a consistent, accurate line width and to retain the shape even after prolonged normal use.

The barrels are round, so rolling can be a concern, but the clip on the cap helps to prevent the pen from rolling away too far in any direction. The cap and the clip do not rotate, so the pen stops rolling when the clip hits the surface.

The Ink:

The ink is archival and there is no apparent issues with lightfastness in my tests. The ink dries to a matte color nearly devoid of sheen. It is consistently the same color which means that the color will not change between pens if one runs out and you have to start with a new one in the middle of a drawing.

The ink will adhere to almost anything without bubbling/pooling or offsetting, in general this means that the ink will not smear or smudge while drawing. Some of this will be affected by drawing speed.

I have found if you allow the ink at minimum 30 seconds to dry before brushing anything on it, this will vastly improve the rate of any smudging/smearing. Ideally one would work from the top corner opposite their dominant/drawing hand side and end up in the lower corner on the same side - working in a diagonal. However this is not always practical depending on the complexity, design, and detail level of any given picture, and so as artists, we tend to skip around either out of necessity, boredom, muscle fatigue, or otherwise. It is precisely this skipping around that can produce the smears/smudges in the inkwork. Lower absorbency papers/support will extend the time this will take, and of course the converse is true as well - the more absorbent a paper/support is, the quicker the ink will “dry”.

The ink is not to be considered fully dry until it has sat for 24 hours. This waiting time before doing anything related to water will vastly help prevent any bleeding/smearing when mixing media as well as helping with the long term stability of a piece.

Sakura states that the pens ink has a standard product performance based on a 24 month shelf life. With the exception of issues created by me, I have had pens last much longer than that.

Durability

The Micron Pen is not the same as a typical biro/ball point pen. It is closer to a felt tip pen. It is extremely important that it stay capped while not in use, both to prevent drying out and to protect the nib.

This post is an unsponsored review. Neither Sakura Color Products Corporation or Sakura of America is aware of the review, provided any materials, or paid for any aspect of this feedback. Everything is 100% my own.

Using the Micron pen line of products on materials other than paper will more quickly contribute to damage to the nib. If you need to use it on an alternative surface - use the largest nib size that will work or use the PN style which will give you line widths and be a sturdier nib. Alternative surfaces are the most common causes of clogging.

The PN style nib is better for a daily writer than the measured nib sizes as it’s more sturdy and can hold up to longer and heavier use.

Micron pens have delicate nibs that are designed to be used at a 90° angle to the paper. The smaller the nib size the more delicate it is and they are designed to create amazingly thin extra fine lines. Use the very lightest touch possible with these pens. They need no more than the weight of the pen itself to work.

Do not drop, shake, or spin the pens. These actions will cause leaks.

Store pens horizontally. I know it is common to toss them into a cup or jar and stand them on end, but allowing the nib to dry out in my experience is one way to shorten the lifespan of the pen/ink. Also, dropping them into these containers can cause leaks from the jarring effect. I personally keep all my pens collected in a resealable bag and store them flat in a drawer and it works well for me, and they last longer than the standard product performance of the 24 month shelf life (unless I am really actively using them, and I just run out of ink).

If you are going to use with any water-based media, allow the drawing to sit for a full 24 hours in open air (in a drawer or on a shelf is fine, it just shouldn’t be sealed up) to allow the ink to fully dry to prevent runs, smears, or other issues. The ink is waterproof once dried, but depending on the type of paper, this drying action can take some time, and even if it looks dry on the surface, it may not yet be dry underneath. Alternatively, you can ink as the final process on top of the painting, which will prevent bleeding, but again make sure the painting is fully dry by letting it sit up to 24 hours (for watercolors) before applying the ink layer.

Experiment 1: Paper/Support Tests

The goal of the paper tests is to show the bleed/feathering resistance of the ink on various papers. Some papers are more fibrous and will bleed/feather more than others and this is due to the paper, not the ink, but the ink is a major factor in bleeding/feathering as a general rule as well.

There are generally two ways manufacturers produce inks that prevent bleeding/feathering is by adding surfactants or going in the other direction and making them a thicker viscosity. The micron pens do not have a thick ink, allowing the ink flow and remain thin on the paper so it dries quickly and does not have an opportunity to bleed.

Experiment 1: Mixing Media Tests

The goal of the paper test

Experiment 1: Technique Tests

The goal of the paper test

Experiment 1: Angle Tests

Many people when using these pens actually exacerbate the threat of damage by using it at an angle. Sakura states that the pens are designed to be used at a 90° angle to the surface. However, it is natural for people to want to write at a 45° angle or less. This puts strain on the nib at the point where it joins into the pen, which can lead to bent and frayed/damaged nibs. The nibs are also designed to be used at this angle to help with the ink flow.

Experiment 1: Waterproof Tests

The goal of the paper test